Shinobu is a classic plant that grows on rock walls and old trees in the bright shade of the Tohoku region and south. It is very cold-resistant and can live even at around -10 degrees.
It is resistant to drought and can survive without rain for 1-2 months. As the rhizomes age, new rhizomes appear. This cycle continues, and the plant continues to multiply. In deep mountains, it can survive for more than 30 years.
This is a naturally hardy plant, and although there is a limit to how much it can grow, if it is hung in a bright shady spot that will get wet from rain, it will grow reasonably well even if left alone for a little while.
It is sensitive to sunlight and will weaken or wither if exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time every day, such as during the summer.
If you follow the care instructions below, you will be able to enjoy the leaves in good condition for many years.

This is how to care for the 300,000 Tsuri Shinobu that have been purchased by our nursery so far. Tsuri Shinobu made by other people are made from different materials and have different manufacturing methods, so the care instructions may be different.

In December, the leaves fall off. In both warm and cold climates, the plant is usually hung outdoors in partial shade. It is dormant from December to February.
If it dries out too much, it will damage the rhizomes, so hang it in a place that is not exposed to strong winds or where it will be exposed to rainwater.
Water the plant about 10 days after the soil has dried, just enough to moisten it and keep the rhizomes reasonably thick.
There are also other storage methods, such as the following. To prevent damage, wrap the Shinobu in newspaper when the soil is only slightly damp towards the end of the year, place it in a plastic bag, and store it in a dark place. This is a good storage method for Tsurininbu, which is constantly exposed to the wind in cold climates, on the upper floors of apartment buildings, and in windy areas, so the rhizomes will be damaged. If there is a lot of moisture, mold may grow. Normally, it can be stored as is for about 60 days, but if you check it once every 30 days and it is completely dry, moisten it a little and dry it in the shade to prevent mold from growing.

Please refer to January and December for management. Normally, even in cold regions, let it rain naturally. After about 10 days from when the soil dries, water it until it is moist. If the air is dry, the rhizome will become thin, so try to keep it thick enough.

February: Use December and January as a reference for managing your time.

March: If you live in a cold climate and are storing them, hang them outside around the end of the month. If you live in a warm climate and are storing them, hang them outside around the first day. If you live in a warm climate, water them thoroughly if they are dry. If you live in a cold climate, water them just enough to keep them moist.
Fertilizer can be provided for a year by burying about six large Hyponex Magamp pellets (for 12cm balls) evenly at the top once a year. There are various shapes and sizes, so you can increase or decrease the amount of pellets based on the amount you put in the 12cm balls. If you need more, dilute Hyponex concentrate 1000-1500 times the amount you would use for wild plants and apply it regularly (about once every 15 days) from March to October.
If the leaf color is pale, apply fertilizer once a week until the color improves. Be careful not to use concentrated liquid fertilizer as it can seriously damage the Shinobu.

April: In warm areas, the long-awaited leaf buds begin to appear.
The best place is one where about 80% of the sunlight is blocked and the remaining 20% ​​of the sunlight is exposed all day. The same environment is found under the branches of a tree where sunlight filters through the trees, or inside a bamboo blind. A bright room is also good.
This will have a significant effect on growth, so hang the plant in a place close to the above conditions. If the sunlight is too strong, the leaves will become shorter, and if the sunlight is weak, the leaves will become longer. If the sunlight is too strong, the leaves will burn and fade, and the rhizomes will be damaged.
When the buds are turning into leaves, do not hang them in a windy place or spray them with water with strong pressure when the new leaves are forming. If the leaves are left hanging, they will tend to become wrinkled and wrinkled, losing their cool feeling. Let the leaves grow crisp so that they can still feel cool. By mid-June, the leaves will have grown into strong leaves, so it would be good to hang them in a place of your choice.
When the soil dries, water the plant by gently immersing it in water (for about 30 seconds) so as not to damage the leaves. Or, water the plant with a watering can so that the water soaks into the soil.

May: Refer to April for care. Even in cold climates, the long-awaited leaf buds will appear. To water, gently dip the plant in water (for about 30 seconds) to avoid damaging the leaves. Or, gently water with a watering can so that the water soaks into the soil.

June: Refer to April for reference when managing the plant. If it is exposed to direct sunlight for a long period of time during the day, the leaves will get burned (9am-5pm). From June to September, it is vulnerable to heat and humidity from asphalt, so hang it in a well-ventilated place.
Hang the plant in a location where it will be shaded by trees, buildings, and blinds, and where direct sunlight has weakened to about 20%. When the soil in the ball is 80% dry from June to September, gently dip it in water (for about 30 seconds). Or, gently water it with a watering can so that the water soaks into the soil.
Spraying medicine: If insects, slugs, fungi, mold, or moss appear, we will capture them and spray effective medicine. For fungi, we will spray medicine that is effective against the fungi.

July to August: This is the season to enjoy the cool weather. This is the season when the rhizomes grow, so take proper care of them (and make sure to use fertilizer regularly) to help them multiply.
When the soil in the ball is 80% dry from June to September, gently dip it in water (for about 30 seconds). Or, use a watering can to gently water the ball so that the water soaks into the soil.

September: Some of the leaves are starting to become damaged.
When the soil is 90% dry, gently submerge the plant in water (for about 30 seconds). Or, gently water the plant thoroughly with a watering can.

October: Partial shade is best. The leaves will turn yellow. Water only until the soil is moist when it dries.

November: Partial shade is best. The leaves turn yellow, creating a late autumn atmosphere. Water only until the soil is moist when it dries.


●How to care for Dendrobium nipponicum: It is more resistant to dehydration and cold than Shinobu, so it should be cared for in the same way as Shinobu. Normally, it rarely dies.

●How to care for Phalaenopsis orchids, etc. Phalaenopsis orchids, Sagikusa, Giboshi, etc. usually bloom for about two years after planting, but as they are cared for with priority given to the growth of the bulbs, please be aware that the bulbs may rot if the care or environment is not suitable.

If the herbaceous plant is deprived of water after it sprouts and starts to grow, the leaves will wilt and die, so as soon as the soil in the ball dries, water it immediately to prevent it from wilting.

The butterfly orchid grows best when the soil is slightly dry. After flowering, you can take care of it in the same way as Shinobu. Normally, it will bloom again next year.

Giboshi is a strong plant, so if you give it the same care as Tsurishinobu, it will grow normally.